Budapest. A city that has always been on my radar. Just the name itself is enticing enough, not to mention the history surrounding this incredible Hungarian city. One side is Buda, the other Pest. Great monuments line the river serving as boasting rights before the two cities became one. And thank God they became one. They say that Budapest is best seen by night and our first few days there we put that theory to the test.
After a near death experience taking a six hour “bus” (a passenger van towing a trailer full of luggage that sped miraculously and cut cars off in a fashion that would make NASCAR proud) from Cluj-Napoca in Romania to Budapest we arrived shaken and unsure of what had just happened. We walked into Grandio, listed as one of Budapest’s infamous party hostels, put our bags down, signed up for a champagne boat tour later that evening, and joined a game of king’s cup. We witnessed a palinka challenge after being persuaded by a pair of Aussies that it would be worth our while to witness the show. They were right. Imagine taking a shot of plum flavored petrol. Now imagine taking that shot, holding it in your mouth, gargling it, and then swallowing. It was foul enough from a bystander's perspective that I swore then and there never to try it (it was a short lived promise).
In order to make it to our champagne party we had to take a knee alongside the other hundred or so people making the journey from our hostel. I felt like I was on a demented field trip as we were instructed to keep the noise to a minimum in the streets as residents of the neighborhood had been known to thrown urine and more down on the party procession for being too noisy. We were ushered through the streets of Budapest all the way to the Danube where our vessel waited patiently in the water. Each of us was handed our own bottle of (foul) champagne and we were off. The city at night was breathtaking. Parliament, Budapest castle, and countless churches were illuminated in the night with golden lights that made my heart soar. The night passed in a beautiful blur as it always does when bad booze and good company is involved.
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| Parliament |
The next day brought about a trip to the bath houses to ease the pain of the night before. We headed to Szechenyi baths and bounced from warm pool to sauna to steam room to cold pool and back again. For months I had been enviously lurking photos of the world famous baths, dreaming of the day that I would soak in the pools. To finally be in a place that I had only ever dreamed of was surreal. It just proved to me, as has been proved time and time again during this trip, that I really can make anything happen that I set my mind to. I no longer have moments where I think “I wish I could do that”, instead I resort to filing the thought until I can make the dream a reality.
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| Szechenyi Baths |
Being thoroughly clean and hangover free we headed back to the filthy hostel for another night on the town. The usual take a knee prep talk was given before we embarked on a pub crawl that took us through ruins bars which are exactly what they sound like. Budapest is an incredibly charming city that is made more impressive as it is full of ruined buildings. The same devious Australians from the first night of the palinka challenge convinced us to try to devilish substance by calling it a cultural experience. Who am I, with my degree in cultural anthropology, to say no to that logic? A toast to Budapest was followed by immediate regret and a stern concentration to hold it together as the fiery substance traveled deep into my soul. It was not any cultural experience I would try again.
Two nights in the party hostel proved to be enough for us and the next day we pack our bags and headed to safer waters. That night, however, we ventured back for another round in the crazy night life of Budapest for Sparty. Spa + party = sparty. We headed back to the Szechenyi baths, but this time everything was different. From miles away we glimpsed spot lights, dancing wildly into the night sky and knew we had made the right decision. The baths were transformed from the peaceful, relaxing spa in the daytime to a neon lit, DJ serenaded, bar encircled, dance party in the water. The frigid temperature outside didn't phase the crowd as people from all over the world celebrated yet another Saturday night in one of the greatest cities in the world. It was an experience I am not likely to ever forget.
Thankfully after the first few nights of madness things calmed down and days began to win my attention again as nights were reserved for movies and peace. We explored all corners of the city from the Budapest Castle to St. Matthias church, to St. Stephan’s Basilica. A quick venture to the great market resulted in an epic sunset picnic at the top of the citadel complete with three different kinds of cured meat, stuffed peppers and pickles, and cheese.
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| St. Matthias Church |
There were too many goodbyes as is often the case when traveling. The hardest by far was having to bid farewell to Rachel, my best friend and favorite travel partner, as she ended our month long jaunt through Europe together and headed home. I was given two days of solitude in which I used to nurse my bruised and blistered feet and plague that I caught from Sparty before meeting Joel, another friend from home. With Joel in town I retraced my tourist steps around the town and even ended up watching a ballet in the Opera House on Halloween night. A most pleasant surprise came when friends returned to Budapest for one night only to dance the night away to Flume and What So Not as they performed their set on a boat floating on the Danube.
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| Rachel |
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| Budapest Opera House |
Thanks for the ride, Budapest. You were a much needed break from reality and your decimated beauty will forever hold a special place in my heart.
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| Hero's Square |
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